Unwrapping the present: the impending shift in shopping habits with the end of complimentary returns
Boohoo has decided to levy charges on returns for online shoppers – a pivotal moment akin to the introduction of plastic bag fees in the realm of fast fashion.
The era of the bedroom becoming a makeshift fitting room is approaching its end. Boohoo, a major player in online retail, has joined a growing list of retailers, which includes Next, Uniqlo, and Zara, in implementing return charges for its customers. Starting this month, patrons will encounter a £1.99 fee for each return, which will be deducted from their refund. The rationale behind this move, as cited by the fast-fashion giant, is to address the escalating expenses associated with shipping.
This development hasn’t been warmly received by bargain hunters. A Twitter user lamented, “the fun is actually over,” succinctly encapsulating the prevailing sentiment. Others expressed frustration over the inconsistent sizing prevalent in many fast-fashion brands, making it difficult to confidently select just one size per order. While brands like Zara offer brick-and-mortar stores for customers to physically try on garments before purchasing, the challenges of erratic online sizing might leave customers feeling penalized.
By initially offering free returns, companies like Boohoo played a significant role in steering consumers away from traditional retail outlets, thereby ushering in a new paradigm of shopping behavior. Platforms such as YouTube, Instagram, and TikTok are flooded with try-on hauls, where viewers are solicited to weigh in on whether the buyer should retain or return the multitude of items purchased online. This phenomenon, fueled by the availability of free returns, has evolved into a distinct genre. A study conducted in 2018 revealed that 9% of UK consumers order clothing with the sole intention of showcasing them on social media, only to promptly return them afterward. Astonishingly, nearly one in five individuals aged 35 to 44 admitted to this practice, with men reportedly engaging in it more frequently than women.
While such behavior may be audacious, it also underscores a more pressing issue: the detrimental environmental impact of returns. Returned garments often end up being discarded rather than resold, contributing to the mounting waste crisis. In the United States alone, 2.6 million tons of returned merchandise find their way to landfills annually, resulting in the emission of 15 million tons of carbon dioxide each year.
The processing of returns is both labor-intensive and costly. Garments must be meticulously inspected, buttons reattached, cardboard inserts reinserted, labels reapplied, products refolded and repackaged, and inventory reconciled within the system. At times, the most expedient recourse is to simply absorb the losses and consign the entire lot to the landfill—a deplorable squandering of resources and a disservice to the artisans who dedicated their time to crafting each item. Yet, this has become the harsh reality of contemporary fashion and retailing at large.
Even when returned items escape the fate of becoming refuse, there’s still the environmental toll exacted by additional shipping and packaging waste. Approximately 180 billion plastic poly bags are manufactured annually for the purpose of storing, safeguarding, and transporting apparel and footwear, with less than 15% of them being recycled. Opening these bags without causing substantial damage is a near-impossible feat, necessitating the use of fresh bags for each return.
The environmental repercussions of returns remain relatively obscure, likely to assuage shoppers’ consciences and encourage guilt-free consumption. However, even if this knowledge were widespread, it wouldn’t necessarily curb the propensity to treat returns cavalierly. Despite the visibility of other environmental and social ramifications of fast fashion, the sector continues to flourish. More often than not, cost and convenience outweigh considerations of sustainability in purchasing decisions, underscoring the need for bold interventions on the part of brands or governments to effect behavioral change.
The efficacy of such measures is evident. Following the introduction of the 5p plastic bag charge in 2015, plastic carrier bag usage plummeted by over 95% in England’s leading supermarkets by 2020. It appears that individuals were disinclined to pay for something they already possessed in abundance at home.
While the decision to implement return charges may be primarily driven by financial considerations rather than environmental concerns, it could yield similar outcomes. With the elimination of free returns, consumers may exercise greater discretion before purchasing ten items with the intention of keeping only five (a practice colloquially referred to as “bracketing”) or acquiring clothing solely for social media content. Faced with the prospect of incurring charges, the garments languishing in our closets might suddenly become more appealing.
Additionally, retailers may be compelled to devote more resources to improving sizing accuracy, with initiatives such as virtual augmented reality (AR) try-ons, enhanced size guides, greater diversity in model representation, and consistent, standardized fits. The assurance that one’s size remains consistent could obviate the need to purchase multiple iterations of the same item—a victory for consumers and the environment alike.
While the transition away from free returns may evoke frustration initially, if it translates into reduced waste and improved fit, it will prove to be a worthwhile investment.